Basically, yes. It’s fine as a first printer. It can benefit from a couple modifications, but doesn’t strictly need them. Main mods are a riser (if you get the combo model with the Qidi Box AMS, it comes with one) that you print, and, optionally, a different fan duct (that you also print) because the part cooling fan duct is designed in a weird uneven fashion.

But engineering filaments generally have low to no cooling anyway, so the cooling duct is a low priority concern. I haven’t even bothered yet. And the riser is mostly just so your PTFE tube doesn’t rub against the lid and wear out prematurely. Only reason I have one of those is because the Box came with it lol.

Designs for both are available on printables or your model repository of choice. The guy who made the glock mag mod for the Urutau even made a Q2 riser with fancy LED lighting and put it on the sea too, if you wanna be real fancy.

It won’t be quite as turnkey as a P2S, but it’s close, it really just needs slightly more manual calibrations… Which you kind of need to learn to do anyway because this particular hobby can potentially blow your fingers off if your calibrations are wrong, so you really need to make sure they’re right instead of trusting Bambu’s default profiles. 3D2A is basically the redline of what these machines are capable of and doing it safely means a great attention to care and calibration - which is why the common advice is always “learn to print first by making little boats and cute dragons, then come back and start with gats.”

But yeah, for 3d2a, especially extreme high end 3d2a like the PPS you want, the Q2 is the printer to get. I’m not even sure a bambu machine short of an H2 flagship model can get hot enough for that.