Neither of them are in CA. I don’t know what exactly the state can do since they’re both outside of the state’s jurisdiction.

I think either one works well. I prefer the strength of the U-bolt on the UBAR but you wont go wrong with either. Heck, why not print both and see what you prefer?

If you’re looking for a relatively easy DIY build, I would actually go with the Decker 380 or even the HitchHiker in 22lr. I would recommend the Thru Bolt 380 mod as well sine it’s easier to assemble. It only costs about $120 to build and doesn’t require a welder like the FGC9. It’s way easier to assemble. DECKER 380: https://guncadindex.com/detail/RELEASE-Decker-3.0.1:d DECKER 380 THRU BOLT https://guncadindex.com/detail/Decker-Bolt-Thru-1.0.2:e HITCHHIKER https://guncadindex.com/detail/HitchHiker:e

I had a FTN 4.5 PCC approved. I submitted a screenshot of some filament, the Breek Blast Shield, and an Aluminum tube. The descriptions were along the lines of “Aluminum tube from Amazon to be used for the serial number”

My description for how I build it was, “I WILL PRINT OUT OF PLA+, THEN EPOXY AN ALUMINUM TUBE FOR THE SERIAL NUMBER AND THEN A THREAD ADAPT THAT I BUY ONLINE”

You can get the cam surface in metal by using SCS and just print out the rest of the super safety. https://guncadindex.com/detail/No-Drill-SCSSS:4

You’re welcome. I used Silencer Shop for mine but any NFA site like National Gun Trust should also be good. I’m sure they are all very similar to each other.

1. Correct. They will all have to submit forms for any future purchases.
2. Yes, you can set up a gun trust with yourself as the only individual on it.
3. N/a see above
4. N/a see above
5. Not necessary with a revocable trust. https://budgeting.thenest.com/need-tax-id-number-trust-grantor-dies-24838.html
6. Please use your own money and don’t set up a bank account. https://nfalawyers.com/myth-bank-accounts-gun-trusts/
7. If you set up the trust, any taxable events will be reported on your 1040. If you get an EIN and set up a set up a bank account, you will file a 1041 instead. The only taxable events I can think of would be from a sale of an item from the trust. That doesn’t normally happen with NFA. If you do sell something, then I would investigate the potential tax burden for it.
8. Don’t overthink it and have fun

https://guncadindex.com/detail/300blkFDE-Filled-Nylon-Settings:c

The FTN5 rimfire and the FTN4 series are okay in PLA+. I’m filing dozens of tax stamps now. I’ll start printing them off in PLA+ and then if/when I blow through them, I’ll upgrade to a QIDI Q2 and print them off in PA6-CF. Granted most of my cans are for PCCs which is a lot lower pressure/wear than 223/308

I’m just planning on submitting 5 every night until I get +100 silencers. Then I may start doing a few SBRs too.

I submitted a few different forms and then went back and got those drafts submitted later. The control numbers jumped about 4000 in the 90 minutes it took to get the submissions to work again

Ugh, I submitted my first FTN.5 Rimfire form1 just fine but the next 2 I tried to submit have run into an error when I tried to submit them.

Can’t you just make a P1S (or whatever printer it’s originally configured for) profile on your slicer and import it that way? You’ll be able to see it and then copy everything over manually into your CC profile.

My number 1 rule of thumb with websites is whether or not they take credit cards. Fake sites will never take credit cards.

Sounds like you should be just fine moving up to a better printer and material! This is a good starting point for setting with PA6-CF. https://guncadindex.com/detail/300blkFDE-Filled-Nylon-Settings:c

Are you new to 3d printing or just 3d2a? You want to make sure you understand your printer really well with cheaper filaments like PLA+ before going to the expensive stuff like pa6cf.

This CF sleeve might work better than the casting tape BTW. https://sollercompositesllc.com/product/2-0in-6k-carbon-med-sleeves-sold-by-the-running-ft/

I was just going to buy the heat set tags from MAF since they’ll engrave it for you. For the FTN silencers I was going to epoxy the tag on the last layer of CF wrap. If you want to put a serial number on new lowers to make a SBR, you can add this as a cutout in the slicer and then just heat set it after it’s printed out. https://guncadindex.com/detail/MAFSerialPlateCut:a

I haven’t seen anyone who has tried it yet. It would definitely require some modification to the trigger to get the SS to work. The CM-1 might work better with the TURD than a SS. You could always print out the CM-1 trigger and the SS cam or the TURD and see how they interact together. They’re all pretty small prints so it wouldn’t take very long to test.

Thank you for following up about this!