Related: https://www.independent.co.uk/life-style/japanese-adoption-rates-majority-adult-men-a7524301.html

98% of all Japanese adoptions are employers adopting the adult men on their staff, not children

…

Some of Japan’s most famous companies have remained a “family-run” businesses because of “mukoyoshi,” such as carmaker Toyota, which was founded by Kiichiro Toyoda in 1937.

Suzuki is also famously run by adopted sons — in fact, the current chairman and CEO Osamu Suzuki is the fourth consecutively adopted son to run the group.

Fellow 2.4 person whose also chiming in on the thread in the lemmy.world instance of this community. My 2.4 doesn’t do this, but it could potentially be klipper related (pressure advance, input shaping, etc).

Your maximum nozzle diameter depends on your extruder. Most printers run one of a few fairly standard designs. It wouldn’t surprise me if there are larger diameter nozzles made for your extruder, but they’re not marketed for your printer.

Samsung phones are largely assembled in Vietnam. It looks like they’re one of the few phone companies not relying on China though.

Welcome to the club! It sounds like you know what to search for, so you’re off to a good start. If you haven’t found it already, Ellis’ print tuning guide will give you a good foundation for tuning your printer well.

It looks like you have an Ultrabase bed, or at least something very similar. I had one on my i3 clone and it served me well for a number of years.

As you discovered, prints will stick to it well if it’s clean. Dish soap and IPA (use the 90+% stuff) do a decent job of cleaning it. Windex also works well for keeping it fresh. Prints will easily release after the bed is cool, especially after the bed gets some miles on it. I’m betting the prior owner either had trouble with their first layer sticking or releasing - glue sticks are used by some for both scenarios. Proper first layer squish, a slow first layer, a clean bed, and a cool bed are all it really takes unless you’re printing something like ABS/ASA and then your first step should probably be an enclosure, not an adhesion promoter.

I am not familiar with your model of printer, but from looking at Google it looks like it’s a typical FDM printer with a spring steel bed. These beds follow this pattern

• Spring steel on top
• Adhesive magnetic below that
• Aluminum bed below that
• Heater below that

So your heater is just fine and you gouged the magnet. I would remove any high points from the magnetic layer, so it doesn’t push the spring steel up in that area, and carry on.

I’m currently running polymaker ASA. It’s not cheap, but it’s not that out of the ordinary price wise for ASA. I am somewhat tempted to give Atomic Filament’s ABS a go since they were one of my go to PETG companies and their filament was super consistent. Polymaker’s ASA has been fairly solid other than the fairly different printing needs of different colors, which is something I haven’t experienced on other types of filament before. Maybe that’s normal for ASA though.

I’m running a bedfan/filter combo called “the filter”. It’s drastically reduced chamber heating times for me. No idea if theres a version out there for your printer, but there might be given it’s popularity and similarities with the Voron trident.

100 bed is pretty reasonable. 260/270 seems pretty toasty, but if it works it works.

Do you have a bedslinger, CoreXY, or something else? Bedfans made a world of difference for chamber heating rate. There are a number of bedfan and active carbon combinations that I’ve found to be fairly effective at chamber heating and reducing odors.

Are you recently enclosed? If yes, beware that everything will expand enough to throw off your first layer if you don’t accommodate for it.

I’ve only run ASA so far, but even sticking with the same brand I’ve noticed that different colors have very different temperature and extrusion multiplier needs. Prior to ASA I stuck with PETG and I used the same settings for any color but white.

As a Voron owner, I kind of echo this but the build is kind of intense. BOM in a box kits make sourcing easier, but even with my (lightly modded) 2.4 it took me about two months of part time chippy away at it. The printer quality and speed are great, as are stock quality of life things (mechanical bed leveling that actually levels the bed)

If you have weaker and stronger layers in the same print, one possible cause is a fluctuating extruder temp.

There are two possibilities here:

• Nothing is mechanically wrong with the printer, but the control loop to maintain your extruders temperature is not well tuned. You can fix this by running a PID tune. Just throw a “u” on the end of the line to write the values to memory
• You could be experiencing an intermittent failure, likely in wiring, for your thermistor or heater

Vertical walls will also typically be wavy in this case because you’ll have more extrusion flow at hotter temperatures and less at lower.

Do you have layers of better layer adhesion and layers of worse? Not to ask the dumb question, but what does your hot end temp look like over the course of a print? You could need something as basic as a PID tune or you might have a failing wire.

What do you mean the legs broke as always? Can you show a screen shot of the sliced model and/or the STL? As it stands (heh) these look like they would be difficult to print in one piece.

Added +1 for happy kids.

What did you change since your failure, or did resliceing with no changes do the trick?

Vorons max at 350mm^3. Adding more in x or y probably isn’t a great idea, but you could probably push z some more. Rat Rigs use larger extrusions and scale to 500x500.

I have a 350mm Voron. I havent completely filled my bed yet, but I have printed some fairly large parts on it. But man, big volume = long print times. I’ve gotten some… very large numbers out of my slicer. Volumetric flow isn’t that high, so I’ll likely grab a larger nozzle and print even wider (currently at 180% layer width on a 0.4 nozzle). Still, a 500mm part would take… a very long time

I finally have a pretty well tuned ASA and ABS capable printer and am excited to give vapor smoothing a shot. That said, I am very curious how repeatable it will be in terms of part tolerance. Most of my parts are functional. Nicer surfaces would be cool, but not if it results in some variability in tolerance.

Additive manufacturing (3d printing) can produce some shapes which are not possible using injection molding

Agree. I was just thinking about this last night. The model I’m currently making would have to be multiple sub-components without 3D printing. Having everything as one piece, but still with a lot of air gaps, makes the finished product stronger.

Injection molding currently has access to a wider variety of materials due to its maturity (pelletized raw material)

There are pellet extruders, but generally agree that there’s a wider material selection available for injection molding.

I’ve had it happen when I partially lose adhesion and the print starts to warp.

Post a picture of your first layer, or just the underside of this print. It looks like your nozzle is quite a bit too high, but it’s hard to tell.

Since you said you had good adhesion before (with the same filament, right?), here are some things to look at:

• clean your bed! If it’s removable, dish soap works well. IPA also works well, but you want the 90% or 95%
• first layer squish. Too much will give you elephants foot. Too little will result in poor adhesion
• have you changed your bed and/or first layer temperature?
• have you changed your first layer speed? Slow is good

On my Voron my nozzle triggers my z endstop. I’ve noticed that if I have gunk on the nozzle from the last print I won’t consistently z home. That can lead to all kinds of interesting print inconsistencies.

Does your nozzle touch your endstop or does something else? I wonder if you’re having an inconsistent first layer. That can mess up my top layer and it wouldn’t surprise me if it also impacted overhangs.