Middleton Made should be g2g.

I’ve had six cans approved that mention embedding the serials into the print. You won’t be able to use small size font though. My first can, I played it safe and set the text to be cut 1mm deep and 9mm tall. It was very legible, but large. I then printed a barrel liner to test various Orca Slicer font sizes. Based upon my experiment, 4mm bold text might still be legible…might. 3mm bold or plain 4mm text had issues that made it a challenge to read some characters. I’m trying 6mm bold on my current print, and if it goes well I may try 5mm bold next. I doubt I’ll try 4mm bold, as the smaller text had issues printing i, l, and 1 when printed along the length of the barrel liner positioned on the print bed as the FTN.5 rimfire cans are positioned. Using bold helps to prevent those letters from just being filled in or mushed between layers. This testing was done with PA612-CF, so PLA+ may work for smaller text on the FTN.5 Rimfire can since it has a smoother print surface than the nylons that look like fuzzy skin PLA.

Edit: Bold 6mm high x 1mm deep looks very clear. I will be trying bold 5mm high next.

Even Combat Armory sells them now.

You’re amazing! I’ve already downloaded v1.1 and will print some of the longer reinforced bolts to see which does the trick.

Here are photos of one of the casings that got stuck, though I didn’t think they looked too bad. But there is a little bulge in front of the rim.

How can I join the discord? Although it manually cycles fine with metal dummy rounds, the headspace must be too large for actual rounds. After detonation, the rear 1mm or so of the casing is bulging and preventing extraction. I’d like to see how the beta resolved the headspace issues.

I have an A1 Mini and the Top Cube zippered enclosure. I leave the front open when printing, but the case is mainly to prevent my kitten from biting the tubes…she thinks she’s a puppy. I did complete the Noctua 4020 motherboard fan upgrade as well. Temps inside never get to the max recommended temp of 30C from Bambu. I also have a Bento Box installed in the back of the enclosure. Now that you know my specific arrangement, I’ve been able to print Fiberon PA612-CF without issue using 300BLKFDE’s settings. PA612 is a blend between PA6 and PA12, so it should last much better on a can than PLA+…but maybe not as well as PA6CF. I do have a roll of Fiberon PA6CF coming with my monthly subscribe & save from Amazon from the end of the month.

Some people like to print PA6-CF above 300C, which my A1 Mini can’t do without modding…which I don’t want to do.

It seems to be a bit of play in both the barrel to the adapter and the adapter to the receiver. PLA+ adapter is providing the tighter fit with the PLA+ upper. I decided to wrap a couple layers of teflon tape around the barrel, but fewer layers around the pin holes in the barrel. It Is now a much tighter fit in the adapter. I actually added additional layers another two or three times after test fitting each attempt.

I then wrapped the barrel adapter with a couple layers of teflon tape as well and it is much better than before. Instead of just under 1/2” horizontal sway of the barrel, it is now down to probably 1/8” or even less. It seems to be a tolerance issue…and that may be a result of the RS22 barrel itself since it was a $35 barrel shipped from Rossi. I further bubba’d it with a black ziptie around the barrel from each side of the end of the handguard and now it is really rocksteady. The two zip ties are pulling equally from both the right and left sides of the handguard. I know my experience is not what is intended, but it seems cable ties and pipe/duct clamps are a natural fit for 3D2A anyway.

As for settings, I printed all the Polymaker PLA+ with 300BLK’ settings. Now I just need to get to a range to finally test it with live ammo, as dummy rounds are functioning quite well. Again, this has been an educational and fun project that reminds me of working out the kinks in the first P80 I built.

Different issue, as I resolved the headspace issue by further filing the reinforcement plate…thanks for the clarifying feedback! I also removed the extraction issue after discovering a small burr on the underside of the extractor that needed to be filed down. My current concern deals with the amount of horizontal barrel sway with the RS22 barrel within the barrel adapter. I’ve printed in both PLA+ and PA612-CF, and both result in the barrel moving up to a half inch (or less) to the right and left. I discovered I needed to increase the supports angle to 31 to get the supports to properly print the reduction area within the adapter. The barrel naturally rests off center to the left…or the handguard and upper incorrectly sit off to the right. It’s like a brace is needed toward the end of the handguard to keep the barrel centered and free of sway. Or does the guide comment to JB Weld the adapter to the barrel also apply to OEM barrels and not just DIY barrels?

This has been quite an educational build and makes me want to join a beta so I can learn even more from the development process.

I’m not new to building guns from parts or from P80 kits, just 3D printed ones. I wasn’t sure how much to file the bottom of the reinforcement plate. I took the edge off, but now I understand the need to file it some, test fit, and file again if still too tight. I was worried about filing too much and it not stripping the next round…but this makes sense. I miss Reddit, but I do appreciate this site and I greatly appreciate your feedback! If nothing else, this gets more discussion going regarding the Wisp…as there isn’t too much about it online and it seems like a really neat project. I’ve had fun so far, but should’ve stuck with Polymaker. I’m not as much a fan of the 3D Fuel filament.

As for the Rossi barrel, it was hard to pass up a threaded RS22 barrel for $37 shipped as part of their BF discounts.

It was a surprisingly easy build. The biggest challenge for me is always arranging things on an A1 mini’s build plate. The optic cost more than the build, but I really like the PA GLx2 optics. Combined, it cost about the amount of a Ruger Charger for just the gun itself though.

The Wisp is quite a bit more complicated, as the guide is rather brief on how to actually assemble some parts. But I’m still printing parts for the stock and awaiting some more parts to fully assemble.

Here is the Remix 3 on an 8” BA barrel. I went with a different brace, which was the longest I could fit on an A1 Mini…and I had to trim the pic rail on the lower to get it to fit. But it provides an extra inch length over the better looking Sauerkraut (photo also included).

I’m not intimidated, just can’t figure out how to get guncad on it…as well as the weird sign in that pulls up unrelated communities or whatever. If someone could do a walkthrough video on how to setup a lemmy app to connect…it would probably be helpful. I just use the website instead, as forums are a welcomed old friend for me.

FYI, there are multiple posts and videos of a concerning fire risk with the way the USB attaches to something…maybe printer head? Anyway, it bends and causes fraying which is a fire risk. They offer replacement cables, but that is something to research before investing in a CC, as the replacement cable will Eve fray as well. There are alleged printable fixes, but I don’t know that they resolve the issue. The CC2 looks weird. My research has caused me to now focus on the Qidi Q2 or eventual P2S as an upgrade/addition to my A1 Mini.

Did I miss the release of your PLA settings?