Which model is it? As far as I’m aware all the Unifi APs need the controller for config. It doesn’t need to stay running unless you want a couple features for large deployments but you do need to run it to set things up initially. The Air Max / uisp lines are the ones with web based config.
Do you have a continuously running unifi controller or is it only running when you do the config? Does it do the same thing with the controller opposite to how it is now (ie if you aren’t running it does it do it when you leave the controller on)?
Are you running the 2.4 and 5 as separate SSIDs or the same one?
Are you on the latest controller and firmware?
I almost wrote this show off because all the posters and visuals show the demon lord as a child, but there’s really not much anime BS around that. It’s way better than it looks from a quick glance.
Basically, except earlier seasons of slime tended to focus on how they would build a functioning nation, and from what I saw of overlord it was much more power fantasy. The end of last season of slime lost that vibe, I’m hoping it comes back.
Probably a weird take but if it is just the support that is printing oddly like that I would just let it ride unless it’s something giant that will take a long time, especially if you can keep an eye on it.
Best case scenario it recovers in a couple of layers and you have an ugly support that you throw away anyway. Worst case it curls up and you pause the print and poke it back down or clip it off. If you have to leave it unattended it’s probably best to figure something out though.
Few options:
Tree supports seem to deal with that kind of thing a lot better than standard supports. I would try turning them on and see how they generate.
You can add a small support cube / pillar with the “print as support” option and just manually check for that kind of thing. Not automatic but probably the most efficient option for print time and material.
An option everyone seems to overlook is support roof, which for large flat areas and weird spots like that can be super useful. It basically prints a raft on top of your supports so there’s basically no bridging.
You can also build clever things into the STL if it’s your own model. See this thread. essentially you add very small (.2mm ish) features in Z that will make the slicer bridge instead of print the hole in air.
Ah, ok. The Unifi stuff is a bit weird like that. I recommend installing the controller on a computer if you continue to have issues. You don’t have to run it all the time, just use it for config and then turning it off is fine. It’ll give you way more information and control over exactly how the AP is set up.