Bambu PET-CF printed with orientation to test layer strength. Results very similar to PA6-GF except PA6-GF breaks like glass, not on the layer lines. To be clear, it’s possible to use better orientations and custom model changes to reinforce things, I don’t consider that reliable though.
The 43X got around 6 shots before splitting apart. This is the 6th attempt with various filaments and models of 43X, they all suck. Using Aves rails. Might have buy the real thing.
The 1911 fired one single 45 and it’s done. Machined the rail myself 6061. First attempt. It’s too bad, this thing was so smooth.
If they’re wet I blast dry for 8-10 hours at the recommended settings (typically 80C). I use heated vacuum drying as well. The print wouldn’t look like mine in the photos if the filament was wet.
Annealing can help with strength but the resulting dimensional changes usually screw everything up. There are certain techniques, tying, bracing, and/or very controlled temperature environments but it’s so much work for a result that still doesn’t quite make it.
Moisture conditioning.
It’s really cool that PA6 rings like aluminum when it’s bone dry, but it’s definitely not its most impact-resistant state.
I’m trying to see why he’s claiming only pla can survive. If he has 20 years of experience, I remember back in the day when everyone kept claiming pa6 was too weak to use yet nowadays it’s the complete opposite and seen as one of the best because the simple knowledge of water.