Drilling is simply a necessity caused by typical fdm printing. The top is going to bridge so will sag unless using support material with 0 z height. Even then, it won’t stop the layer stepping and drilling is needed to get as close to a perfect hole as possible for pins to fit as best as they can.
That way is ideal but takes longer. For people wanting to shoot asap, I typically suggest a wet sponge in a container for 2 weeks.
I drill when I build and that’s after annealing and moisture conditioning. There should never be any concern of cracking unless the print itself is bad.
I’ve updated the files with alternate length bolts. The guide now also explains one way of measuring headspace since I got asked that a lot.
Likely an issue with tolerance stacking. With rs22 it’s a bit harder to adjust since the barrel can’t be moved in easily. It would be best if I release bolts with different length options so people can choose the right one that fits.
Eventually I’m going to do a different design (replica this time) with a receiver in a chassis bolt action with a multi piece receiver so headspace can be adjusted easier.
I’m trying to see why he’s claiming only pla can survive. If he has 20 years of experience, I remember back in the day when everyone kept claiming pa6 was too weak to use yet nowadays it’s the complete opposite and seen as one of the best because the simple knowledge of water.
Moisture conditioning.
What was your conditioning process for any of the pa?
I’ll need to tighten the adapter tolerances then.
Rs22 barrel should be the most stable attachment with the pins going all the way through the receiver. So is the play in the adapter to barrel or adapter to receiver? If there is any need for a brace than something isn’t fitting correctly.
It’s all the same bcg and barrel design. I’d consider ar22 standardized with different 22lr ar types having different names like sw15-22 or bc22. I meant price. Factor in the barrel cost and rtb bcg in a combo is roughly $85.
It’s just matching rtb bolt+barrel combos. I think psa has a higher shipping cost too, I’ll have to look at my orders.
You can go farther in or just use something else to keep it down as it cools. Screwdriver works. Make sure to keep it straight. Then cut off the excess that pushed out around it.
They specify ambient air at 70% rh. There is no room for interpretation.
What you read was their wet testing method which says submerged in water at 60c for 48h which oversaturates to 5.3% when equilibrium to air is 3.3%. Testing is a harsher environment as others may use their prints in wet environments. We don’t submerge our guns in water so we care less about the wet test results nor is it the ideal moisture conditioning method.
I don’t remember. I think it was labeled as abs+
Layer adhesion and impact strength is generally weaker than pla. There are some abs/asa that are actually more than pla pro but it’s dependent on a heated chamber. Because of the difficulty to print, it’s usually not recommended along with the higher levels of toxic fumes and it just gets everything inside the printer dirty. I still do use it for temp resistant reasons but only if I really don’t want cf/gf texture and can’t sand it because of the shape. Otherwise I’d typically just use nylons.
You’d have to check the readme for which designs it’s fine to use on.
Leave it in my shower if I’m impatient but I typically have multiple projects going on so not touching something for weeks isn’t uncommon.
Quickest I would recommend is a wet sponge in a container or bag.
You’d need to be careful when boiling as the thinner areas will absorb water easier, oversaturate and expand more than other areas causing it to warp. I don’t recommend boiling and neither does filament manufacturers or other commercial product manufacturers. The temp is also high enough to affect the crystalline structure and you may not be annealed properly anymore. A lot of people said to boil to anneal and moisture condition at the same time but that’s not how it works. The oversaturation will not let it anneal properly.
Being submerged in water will also result in the same issue just slower since it’s colder. It can be dunked but I wouldn’t leave it in water too long. I’ve had dust covers on handguns warp within a few hours in room temp water.
You didn’t put any sealant inside did you? It’ll still absorb from there but takes longer since it would have to penetrate through. 2 weeks is usually the minimum but it won’t fully saturate even in a humid environment for 2+ months.
Couple days. Christmas the latest.
I haven’t dyed anything so don’t know about that. What is your reason to seal it? I have yet to see a worthwhile reason. It either wears off so is pointless or people want to seal it for the wrong reasons. For other things like texture, there are easier methods.