Bambu PET-CF printed with orientation to test layer strength. Results very similar to PA6-GF except PA6-GF breaks like glass, not on the layer lines. To be clear, it’s possible to use better orientations and custom model changes to reinforce things, I don’t consider that reliable though.
The 43X got around 6 shots before splitting apart. This is the 6th attempt with various filaments and models of 43X, they all suck. Using Aves rails. Might have buy the real thing.
The 1911 fired one single 45 and it’s done. Machined the rail myself 6061. First attempt. It’s too bad, this thing was so smooth.
I do not. I’ve only used it on things like grips, flashlight mounts, FRTs, etc… and while it’s held up great for what I’ve used it for, I haven’t yet tried any other CF or nylon filiment. The reason I chose PA612-CF is because in my research it seemed like a good middle ground between PA6-CF and PA12-CF in regards to water absorption, warping, ease of printing, strength, and absorption. but I need to do continued testing before I could make a good decision.
Ahh ok, I know you said it works well for FRTs so I assume you mean the SS. How many rounds has that lasted you? I’ve been thinking of maybe investing in a mill and trying to make all of these parts out of aluminum or steel. Plus I have a big project that I want to work on and maybe release to the public for others to maybe take hold and beta test. But a more cheaper option is to use my 3d printer that I already have to R&D my self
Yes the SS. Also the T.U.R.D and the Glock FRT trigger shoe. I’ve used the T.U.R.D mostly but I’m too poor to put a lot of money towards ammo and I have to travel like 3 hours away if I want to use it. But I have around 120 rounds through it and it’s still holding on. Has some marks on the sides of the lever but that’s it. Ohhh, that sounds really cool. I’ve tried casting a SS with aluminum but my set up was too red necked and didn’t work, might try again though. But yeah proper mill could be great. Ohhhh care to share any about the project?