Hey boys I’m trying to cad up the jar fish dedicated ar barrel to fit a 5 1/2“ chaszel liner for a deAR22. The od is .370.
Issue is the liners OD is too big. It doesn’t fit in the hole. (thats what she saidI wish).
So I want to make the hole big enough to fit the liner but idk if a bigger hole= weaker part?
I’ve got nothing against the idea of a mostly printed dedicated ar22 barrel. I’ve got to go against the grain and ask: Is there a reason you’re opting for the traditional ar22barrel (im assuming its gonna be the typical profile) over a carbon fiber Proto-barrel? You’d only need the larger diameter of the two “required carbon fiber tubes” when making one from a chaszel barrel. The best part is its infinitely easier to remove the liner if you mess up or want repurpose the liner for a different project ( versus sticking prints it in a corrugated cardboard box to cook it with a Heatgun). If you want to use any muzzle devices it has coarse thread adapter that is much easier to deal with than the finer stuff like: 1/2-28, 5/8-24 when printed from PLA+/pro. If its something you just feel like doing or designing then go for it I wouldn’t mind seeing other barrel profile copies or even entirely new ones. However when taking into Consideration $20-ish (generally speaking if there’s two brands with seemingly identical options the one priced slightly higher usually will have a better finish) buys enough material to make at-least two (16"long) and as many as 6(5.5"long) (remember chaszel liners only use the 1x25x23x420mm tube in the BOM ) nothing else comes to mind that can elevate your project’s looks and (most often) performance for such a small investment in capital and time.
Honestly when I first started going down the printed route I had no idea the proto was a thing. Saw the jar fish one on printa22 and gave it a go. Just recently found out about the proto, it seems intimidating though. This is my first mostly printed build. Still don’t fully understand how long the hand guard needs to be compared to the barrel etc. So I decided to get a metal one instead. Rtb out of the 4.5 one. Stupidly decided to gamble on dav defense. ( 9 days today and it still hasn’t shipped. They say up to 2 full business weeks so they’re getting an email soon. Just waiting on that and the catch 22 v1, just messing with the jar fish one for experience/ impatience. I’ve checked out the proto. It’s just uses Amazon cf tubes. Maybe epoxy /bolts etc?
I Promise you It is SUPER easy if you’re using a dedicated ar22 bolt (the conversion bolt has this extra step where you gotta cut into the chambered part of the liner so that can throw you off until you realize that’s not required). The hardest part is filing into the liner for the extractor which is still easy as poop…if you get that wrong your shit will still work just not quite as well. You can use almost any kind of super glue or CA epoxy but jb weld is the best IMO. You don’t necessarily have to Glue everything immediately if you keep a tight enough fit you can test fit everything together but i wouldnt fire before glueing. just be sure to clean it scuff it rough it.
A metal barrel is fine too as long as its not too long and heavy for the plastic upper.
I Promise you It is SUPER easy if you’re using a dedicated ar22 bolt (the conversion bolt has this extra step where you gotta cut into the chambered part of the liner so that can throw you off until you realize that’s not required). The hardest part is filing into the liner for the extractor which is still easy as poop…if you get that wrong your shit will still work just not quite as well. You can use almost any kind of super glue or CA epoxy but jb weld is the best IMO. You don’t necessarily have to Glue everything immediately if you keep a tight enough fit you can test fit everything together but i wouldnt fire before glueing. just be sure to clean it scuff it rough it.
A metal barrel is fine too as long as its not too long and heavy for the plastic upper.
Make hole slightly bigger, try fitment. If too tight, try again. If too loose, try again. You gotta also account the space you need for epoxy. If threaded, use threads on chamber side for epoxy and 3/8-24 to 1/2-28 adapter on the other. It’s a 22, it’s gonna be strong enough to make hole .010” bigger.
Thank you I have same problem measuring it the calipers and I noticed it was a bit bigger than what was asked for in the readme
That’s pretty much what I did haha I finally got the perfect fit this morning. Didn’t think about the epoxy though. How much space should I leave for epoxy you think? It’s an unthreaded 5 1/2” chazsel liner.
You can probably just put some channels in there for the epoxy
Excuse my ignorance but channels? Like grooves in the liner itself or in the shroud? If in the shroud I guess k could just warp it ever so slightly by using the select feature in autodesk mesh mixer? If I’m unable to do that… how much space would you say is needed for the epoxy? Should the liner still fit pretty snug?
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