There’s some good videos on Odysee, but a lot of it just comes with time and getting better at whatever CAD software you’re using. There’s typically a dozen different ways to do the same thing with some ways taking 10x as long for the same outcome.
Sounds doable, essentially a revolver action in a gatling gun that indexes the barrels when the trigger is pulled.
The question is how do you add an FRT component that resets the trigger in a traditional gatling design?
The FTN.5 seems to be the quietest can at the moment.
Short and lightweight will always mean louder, its just the tradeoff you have to make. Larger with more baffles tends to mean quieter with the tradeoff of size and weight. Although being 3D printed the weight isn’t anything like 17-4 stainless or inconel.
I’m working on a 22lr version of the B&T MP9 reduced back pressure can. It’s a flow through but massive for a 22lr so the increased volume should make it pretty quiet. But shes big. Unlike most print in place cans, this will need printed individually and assembled due to overhangs and support constraints. It’s direct thread for a 3/4x16 to 1/2x28 adapter. Still a work in progress though.
They just posted on discord that theyre restocking the P1S CFX tomorrow
Try asking on the DarkMoon discord, the owner is very responsive and can give you an ETA on the next drop.
You can get away with cheap LPKs but only if you understand how the glock FCG functions. The cruciform and connector can sometimes need adjusted with slight bends, or the housing may be out of spec and require adjusting.
However for those that don’t know those components and how they should interact they should definitely buy OEM and save themself the trouble and risk of an ND.
As an example: The cruciform holds back your striker which is under spring pressure, bending that cruciform up and down very slightly changes the engagement of the striker, too much and it wont fire, too little and the striker can slip. Add onto that, many cheaper kits have weak springs, and the odds that the slipped striker could bypass the drop safety increases, which results in the gun going off in a holster or when dropped. Id highly suggest watching JohnnyGlocks videos for anyone interested as he’s a true expert when it comes to glock triggers.
Possibly if you use stainless steel mesh as a reinforcing layer within the silicone. I used a silicone baffle in some smoke grenade designs to reduce flare up, however silicone alone wasnt enough and was being ripped apart and yetted from the canisters. Once I added stainless mesh used for screen doors it worked well. The problem is see with this, is the mesh would need a hole drilled through it which means the area of the silicone that would sheer away would still be left unsupported.
On top of the 0.4mm hardened nozzle, you’ll also want the hardened extruder gears. They’re cheap and keep your extruder gears from wearing out.
You can make do with other build plates but if you dont want to worry about bed adhesion at all and plan to do prints with various engineering filaments I would highly recommend the DarkMoon CFX build plate. It’s an actual carbon fiber weave encased in resin that sticks very well to Nylons, PET, ASA, and so on (it isnt great for PLA though, their Satin plate is great for that).
300blkfde’s settings are the go to for everything nylon, with some small changes it’s great for everything from PA6-CF to PPS-CF.
As for more advanced filaments like PPS, you can add a 33ohm resistor inline with the thermistor of a spare hardened nozzle. This tricks the P1S into thinking that the nozzle temp is lower than it is and allows the temp to go higher. But for this material you’ll also need a chamber heater. There’s many designs out there but expect the heater and power supply to cost around $80-$100 to fully build. Some other filaments can benefit from the chamber heater but PPS is the main one where it’s actually required to print.
Honestly that seems like the simpler way of doing it that I completely overlooked lol. I’ll give it a try, appreciate it.
Not possible with what you bought. That’s a monocore baffle which in itself is considered a suppressor so be careful… That can is designed to be a direct thread only, so you would need to design a 1/2x28 to 1/2x28 booster assembly and have it machined as I highly doubt it would hold up being 3d printed.
Most solvent traps aren’t good for anything more than 22lr or a slow firing schedule of 9mm/5.56. If you want to form 1 something that can take some abuse, subzerosupply is one I’ve seen recommended as most “cup” supply shops closed their doors when the ATF started cracking down. 17-4 stainless is heavier than titanium but can handle much more heat for sustained FRT rifle fire. https://www.subzerosupply.com/Ice-Mountain-Cup-SS-1639_p_101.html
Although RTB is $3 cheaper on the LPK, KTM has a lot of really cheap parts you can add on, like a 10 pack of gas rings for $5.
Another 2 great site to look at for larger purchases is battlehawkarmory and lanbosarmory. They don’t always have the cheapest price on smaller items but when looking for uppers, lowers, LAMs, optics, lights, etc… I’ve personally saved hundreds over the years with them.
Just checked and KMTactical seems to have the lowest price im finding. $28.99 complete LPK minus grip, shipping is $7.95
Edit: Right to Bear is actually $3 cheaper with their BLACK25 code
Is it compatible with a Mac 10 .45 upper? I’ve only seen the ones using Mac 11/9 uppers chambered in 9mm as the uppers are longer and slimmer.
Unfortunately, the released Beta files still only support Gen 3 at the moment. I was looking into it for a Gen 4 slide, but no dice as of yet.
It’s at 25.5mm/s
Any recommendations on the nozzle and gears? Also, is there a reason to get both the satin and cfx build plates if the cfx can handle the long range of filament types?
Gyroid baffles in 17-4 or inconel sure, but even in PA6-CF that’s going to be a no go. The material will simply be too thin and will either deform rapidly or break due to the forces especially if close to the blast chamber where pressures are the highest. What caliber are you making this for, barrel length, and what material/thickness is the airsoft suppressor? There’s a reason every 3D printed suppressors design that works for any reasonable number of rounds has thick walls and infill, you need that density to hold up to the pressure and forces at hand.