I have a few questions on the FTN as we get closer to Jan 1. I plan on submitting quite a few form 1s. This is my original form 1 that had a failure after less than 200 rounds. The particular day of failure was very cold and failed after only 2 standard capacity mags back to back not rapid fire. I followed PLAbois guide to a T.
- Is the FTN.4 the most solid 3d printed suppressor so far? Best performing?
- Best mounting method? I used KAK micro flash hider.
- Any other suppressors worth looking into? 5.56 as well as other calibers?
This failure happened with an 11.5” KAK “suppressor only” barrel. The core is annealed polymaker PA6 and I used a liberal amount of JB Weld.
I pulled the plug back and it looks like it might still be somewhat usable. The KAK flash hider is still in place, but the reinforcement high speed steel bars are creeping into the nylon and cracked slightly. Could maybe become a dedicated 22 can I guess.
I think after January 1st we will start seeing more options out there available for testing!
Can you just fill that entire space with something? What part broke?
The two metal steel pieces that lock the muzzle device are wanting to creep out and they almost look bent. It’s slightly cracking at the spot this metal rods touch the PA6. But yes, I am just going to fill it in and hope she holds.
I asked my friend whos made a few of these, and showed him the pics
He says that plug flies out all the time, and some of his has had minor cracks but still held up
Okay that makes me feel better. Thank you
I’ve been looking for someone with this same problem. 1 round 308 blow out. I wonder about filling it back in with JB Weld
Following!
How long was this moisture conditioned? It might take longer as well since it’s encapsulated
That’s a good point. I put it in a mini oven for about 4 hours at 180F after the print and then sealed it up probably 2-3 days after. What’s the right way to do it? Maybe let it naturally reach moisture equilibrium after for longer after the oven anneal?
Also…when is the yippee ky yay release? I really want to print that
You didn’t put any sealant inside did you? It’ll still absorb from there but takes longer since it would have to penetrate through. 2 weeks is usually the minimum but it won’t fully saturate even in a humid environment for 2+ months.
Couple days. Christmas the latest.
No sealant but a whole lot of JB weld. Interesting. Well this shows I definitely need to give it more time to saturate.
I did see posts on the old fosscad of people boiling their prints. Maybe I’ll try that too.
Thank you!
You’d need to be careful when boiling as the thinner areas will absorb water easier, oversaturate and expand more than other areas causing it to warp. I don’t recommend boiling and neither does filament manufacturers or other commercial product manufacturers. The temp is also high enough to affect the crystalline structure and you may not be annealed properly anymore. A lot of people said to boil to anneal and moisture condition at the same time but that’s not how it works. The oversaturation will not let it anneal properly.
Being submerged in water will also result in the same issue just slower since it’s colder. It can be dunked but I wouldn’t leave it in water too long. I’ve had dust covers on handguns warp within a few hours in room temp water.
So what is your standard procedure?
Anneal in oven after print and then let sit at room temperature for weeks?
Leave it in my shower if I’m impatient but I typically have multiple projects going on so not touching something for weeks isn’t uncommon.
Quickest I would recommend is a wet sponge in a container or bag.
I left mine submerged in water maintained at 60c for about 2 days. I used a sous-vide circulator to keep it at temperature. This is how I interpreted the Fiberon guidance for moisture conditioning.
From my understanding 4hrs isn’t long enough. You need to bake it at 100C for at least 10-12 hours for the crystalline structures to fully rebuild. I did a lot of researching and found that the longer it’s annealed the longer the chains, and that helps in impact resistance and creep. However. If it’s annealed too long it will weaken it and make it brittle. 10hrs at 100C, then SLOWLY lower temp to room temp. After that, either let it sit out in a humid environment for 2 weeks, or place in a plastic bag with a wet sponge for a 3-5 days. That should moisture condition it to spec
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Use subsonic rounds to improve life span or up size parts can ect to take supersonic rounds. More powder = more wear and tear
