Bambu PET-CF printed with orientation to test layer strength. Results very similar to PA6-GF except PA6-GF breaks like glass, not on the layer lines. To be clear, it’s possible to use better orientations and custom model changes to reinforce things, I don’t consider that reliable though.

The 43X got around 6 shots before splitting apart. This is the 6th attempt with various filaments and models of 43X, they all suck. Using Aves rails. Might have buy the real thing.

43X

The 1911 fired one single 45 and it’s done. Machined the rail myself 6061. First attempt. It’s too bad, this thing was so smooth.

1911

  • pv2025@forum.guncadindex.com
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    1 month ago

    right… pet-cf prints pretty, but is not really functional/reliable for frames. i was on the pet-cf train and tried hard to make it work. but all parts and frames eventually just split on layer lines.

    id like to see more reports on plain ppa, plain pps… although i believe plain ppa is susceptible to creep… as seen on amazon and r/ posts.

    would be good to have a community spreadhseet listing/rating he various filaments… with fields for best application, ideal print temp, ideal drying temp/time, etc.

    • Signaidy@fosscad.io
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      1 month ago

      I’ve not done plain ppa… but ppacf does hold up pretty well, and I suspect that plain ppa for frames and the like it should hold pretty well since it has really good layer adhesion, and ppacf has worse layer adhesion

      Pps-cf I find I dont like much for frames and lowers but I love it for suppressors, it has great thermal resistance, but its too brittle in my experience, dunno bout plan pps however but it should give you an idea, plain should be less brittle and better layer adhesion but worse thermal resitance