That’s dope, when I glanced over the files I though it was a long boi, this mod looks neat!
Any chance the butt can be made of tpu, or does it need to be rigid for the bolt?
Might come up with some two piece butt + pad if that’s the case
Yoooo let’s gooo
And then do it again for every new iteration… Although now I bet we will see a lot more betas for integrally suppressed designs pop up
I spray painted mine with a high temp mattress balck paint, the one used for grills lmao
IMO the best option, I was going to make one myself for when I wasnt planning on using FA, but just didn’t have the time
I did, but I got the FA permissions for were I live, so I basically kept it stock, if you can get that that’s what I recommend, but if you dont, rather than modifying the original fcg, It’s better if you make the ar fcg mod, has a better trigger feel than stock and I’ve heard guys saying its more reliable, my guess its cuzs the ar fcg is made out of metal, but it IS more work, though it seems worth it IMO
They are more of a longevity thing in my opinion, although to be honest my trunnion is not showing much signs of wear, granted my 556 reciever has only seen around 500 shots, and my 300bo reciever around 100, so mine are not on the abused side of things. If you intend to put thousands of rounds into it, quickly, I would go for it though.
Granted the piece totals to about 50g of filament, and with the kilogram at $80 in polymaker pa6cf20, you would have to run through 25 nylon trunnions before you equalize the price of the one offered by V in his site(here if you wanna check it out, its on discount: https://3dprintfreedom.com/product/nylaug-aluminum-trunnion/), however, it does have the benefit of putting metal right on the chamber, so on the safety side you can guess how much more peace of mind you can have knowing an OOB would probably not explode your face as hard as on the printed one… though the mechanism of the aug seems to prevent it on its own, hammer won’t hit the bullet unless bolt is fully seated, but it does also remove some of the heat in the area since it has better conductivity and more thermal mass than the printed trunnion…
Anyway I think I’m getting derailed, I dont think the aluminium trunnion is fully necessary, but if you can purchase one, it is a nice to have, as I said 3dprintfredom has it on discount right now if you want it(its the link above).
Good luck buddy, do report how it holds up!
In my experience, I’ve had some creep on my lowers due to moisture, but not to the point of failure, it also gets soft and can be bent by hand, funny cuz it returns right back to where it was and there is no issue except when you disassemble and it then no longer fits hahaha
Then again I live in the middle of a 80%+ RH rain forest
I’ve not done plain ppa… but ppacf does hold up pretty well, and I suspect that plain ppa for frames and the like it should hold pretty well since it has really good layer adhesion, and ppacf has worse layer adhesion
Pps-cf I find I dont like much for frames and lowers but I love it for suppressors, it has great thermal resistance, but its too brittle in my experience, dunno bout plan pps however but it should give you an idea, plain should be less brittle and better layer adhesion but worse thermal resitance
We bought ours from mutedmachineworks.com
I’ll be honest though, the baffles you can make by drilling the holes are not that good, I buy only the tubes and end caps and 3d print the baffles, often add the metal baffles at the beginning so it absorbs the blast instead of the nylon, I feel it last longer that way… 3d printed baffles have way better performance than the metal ‘emitters’ they sell, plus less drilling, since you only do the softer end cap, and the ocassional shield baffle lol
Last attempt was really good for 9mm and 556, slightly more sound than a hubtn4(due to the smaller volume) but also smaller size and looks dope.
I dont remember exactly but some folks have made baffles to 3d print for the fake airsoft aluminium cans, pistons and other stuff…
I personally made mine using ftn mega pack that has the ‘D-cell’ baffles, just scale them to your tube and that’s it, I also tried to extract the baffles from a hubtn4 for each caliber but it was quite a hassle… it did perform better though, sadly had to make tons of cuts and negative spaces in orca that I can’t find the time to do again(my hdd died, and those baffles with it).
And I bet trem-mango could do a way better job than me, since mine were janky af
Oh, and I put a yhm hub on them
Is that Mary I see?
The decker is a fully diy in .380acp and the 3dp90 is a a diy 5.7, so it for sure would work, the only thing in the 3dp90 that’s usually not diy is the barrel, but they do include the blueprints in case you got a barrel blank and a lathe. I dunno about .45 since its such a bigger round, the bolt would have to be heavier and the upper stronger, but you can for sure do it
I also put to use the 1/2x28 inner thread with a muzzle break, for more longevity of the suppressor, this ones only gotten through about 150 rounds, its in pa6-cf
Nikolai’s Machina fits it like a glove, and has a version that can be threaded into the large threads of the barrel, leaving it flushed
This is my mac and cheese v2.5 with the supp for reference
Also no toes for thee
No experience with .22lr cans, but for my 9mm, the quietest reading I’ve gotten is with the hubtn.4, he has a .22lr version, but again I have not tested it, might be worth to try it out though
My original tac9 firing pin broke on my second range session… I bought spares from maf-arms, they were like 10 bucks, and they seem to be way better quality than the one that came with the tac upper, I bought 5 replacements and I’m still using the first one lol.
I just checked and they are out of stock, sadge, still this is the link if you wanna get notified by email: https://maf-arms.com/product/tac-chime-firing-pin-replacement/
Man almost all the tac9 stuff is out of stock
Currently my go tos are ST ppa-cf for important parts, polymaker pet-cf for nonload bearing parts(where I would traditionally use pla+ in some color, I use pet if I wanted the ash black color, or if I want it to last longer) and polymaker pps-cf for suppressors
Yeah the bipoly looks great. I’m gonna look into that version as soon as I get my parts!
Orca let’s you emboss text into parts, just select the type ‘cut’ so instead of protruding the text it makes the cavity of the text, you can select font and size, super convenient and easy, can put the text anywhere you want in the print, I’ve done that in a couple of lowers just to add some flavour to my prints lol