Is this possibly a .6mm nozzle and you havent tuned flow/em or pressure advance?

annealing can cause dimensional changes. I dont see any reason to intentionally drill pre anneal

You are welcome.

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1JpHbCdBPEAOq_z8KGwK0mYL2qtwQX3bi

https://discord.gg/5hbt6xDPqf

My two favorite resources outside of Guncademy.

check PM

You are drilling into a relatively supple plastic; you aren’t going to crack it. However, annealing does cause a dimensional shift depending on material and geometry, so drill after.

I prefer toaster oven + PID for annealing over drying. If you can find an airfyer with a keep warm setting they can usually run for up to 8h

My two cents.

You can go a few different routes but what I recommend is getting either a budget dryer you think looks cool and an airfryer or getting a nice dryer and an air fryer. Either way, unless you can hit 90-100c, you are leaving performance/drying capacity on the table

I started with a shitty Ebios dryer and found that it couldn’t dry PA so I added an airfryer and started putting my engineering filaments in cereal containers. Blast dry in the airfryer at 94c fro about 8h for PA, then print from a dry box.

These days, I use a Creality SpacePi x4, but my airfryer is still my go-to any time I get a wet roll. It simply hits better temps and has way more airflow. The trick is that you need a unit that has a keep warm and/or dehydrate function so that you can hit low enough temps to not melt the filament but still be able to run the unit for hours on end.

Best of all, you can often find them used for 10$

Pet-cf is a poor choice for small pistol frames, however this isn’t really an issue with larger projects such as lowers, pdw frames, etc.

Pet-gf is even better in this regard.

However I prefer ppa-gf over both

How are the parts failing as a function of rigidity?

debt is bad guns are good. Don’t carry debt so you can buy guns!!!

FRT are not “NFA compliant” so that section doesnt apply at all. However, this law is specifically why I pushed the various kabuto/turd devs to shift the naming scheme from “activator” to “trigger timing bar”.

If i remember correctly the whole point of the drink can mods was an “in plan sight” suppressor.

I also approve this message. Confuzled is a piece of shit

Easy 22 build is the EZ22