I’d assume it’s best to drill your holes before you anneal? Since the stiffer the part is the more likely it is to crack? Can’t find solid answer anywhere.
You are drilling into a relatively supple plastic; you aren’t going to crack it. However, annealing does cause a dimensional shift depending on material and geometry, so drill after.
Thank you.
You are welcome.
I drill when I build and that’s after annealing and moisture conditioning. There should never be any concern of cracking unless the print itself is bad.
Thank you. What’s your go to for moisture conditioning? Was under the impression you just let them sit in the air to absorb moisture?
That way is ideal but takes longer. For people wanting to shoot asap, I typically suggest a wet sponge in a container for 2 weeks.
I wanna do it correctly so I’m okay with waiting. Actually just dyed my first nylon gf print. Going forward-I wait for it to air dry? Then anneal. Then wet sponge bag it? If I wanted to seal it with some type of epoxy would I do that before moisture conditioning? Or do I want that moisture in there?
I haven’t dyed anything so don’t know about that. What is your reason to seal it? I have yet to see a worthwhile reason. It either wears off so is pointless or people want to seal it for the wrong reasons. For other things like texture, there are easier methods.
I thought sealing nylon cf/gf would help with the moisture.
The concern for moisture is overexaggerated. Without moisture it is too weak and will break. You want moisture. Pa6 is by far one of the weakest filaments when dry and is unsafe when dry. Any coating on the outside is very difficult to keep water tight when moving parts are involved and is more work trying to recoat it for no real benefit. If you live in the swamp, then use other filaments like 12, 612, ppa, etc but as someone who lives in a hot humid environment, pa6 is still good and stronger than pla. The lower rigidity when wet isn’t enough to cause issues. Higher rigidity is nice to have for some stuff and would be why I use the others.
Okay thank you. I won’t even try to coat it then. Where I’m located it can be pretty humid. In the summer months the average is 75%~90%. In the winter months the average 70%~75%. What would you pick? Pa6cf20? Pa612cf15? Or PA6cf10?
why not make the hole in the model before printing it? caliper tool is your friend here.
For some reason alot of the p1s’s struggle with xy horizontal holes. The smaller ones tend to come out wonky. Spent weeks trying to diagnose the issue and days trying to fix it. Tried cleaning/greasing/tightening etc. Everything. Ended up learning how to undersize holes in cad so they can be drilled perfectly.
Drilling is simply a necessity caused by typical fdm printing. The top is going to bridge so will sag unless using support material with 0 z height. Even then, it won’t stop the layer stepping and drilling is needed to get as close to a perfect hole as possible for pins to fit as best as they can.
It’s not a native issue to bambu’s software, or tinkercad, or any mesh software. It’s just material properties. You usually want to either undersize or oversize holes depending on application (heat set, general, pins, etc). just because a bolt diameter measures out to be 3mm doesn’t mean it will actually thread in properly unless you tap the hole or size it up another .2mm. I just meant using a caliper tool to figure out the center point of the hole, then whatever your bolt diameter is, I found adding .2mm to that works perfect with any PLA+, ASA-CF08 and PA6.
Ohh okay. I kinda misunderstood what you were saying. Are you saying use the calipers to make sure it’s perfectly aligned before drilling?
The main problem is the fcg pin holes. They’d come out slightly oval shaped. After the holes were drilled, there’d always be a bit of wiggle room which would cause them to walk. So I figured shrink the hole, then drill it carefully. So far the pins are much more secure. Contemplating anti walk pins as well.
I mean take measurements of where the holes are supposed to go (if you’re referencing another firearm with the same holes) and use those measurements from the caliper tool to recreate the holes in a software, and oversize them by .2mm (if doing .20 resolution). that way, no drilling is required, just any post annealing you may need to do.
If you absolutely must drill into the material to enlarge something, I would do it pre-anneal. The annealing process changes the structural rigidity and properties of the material. Any surface treatment that needs to be done (besides sanding) should be done before annealing.
annealing can cause dimensional changes. I dont see any reason to intentionally drill pre anneal
