Does someone have screenshots of 300blkfde pa6 settings that I can see, I’m on centuari carbon so the printer file doesn’t transfer all the settings correctly when downloaded and put into Elegoo slicer
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I have them lol! Pm me your email and I’ll send them to you
Sent thanks 🙏
The man, the myth, the legend himself.
@TheShittinator@forum.guncadindex.com as much as 300blk gets asked for these, it might be a good idea to add a link in the about section of this instance or somewhere more permanently accessible.
Probably not a bad idea.
Can’t you just make a P1S (or whatever printer it’s originally configured for) profile on your slicer and import it that way? You’ll be able to see it and then copy everything over manually into your CC profile.
Exactly what I did
I had a Centauri carbon and it was amazing for the price. I printed over 2500 hours on it using strictly pa6-cf, pps-cf, ppa-cf, and pet-gf. I also have a Creality K2 plus and a lot of the times it printed better than the $1500 printer. I sold it after I got a Qidi q2 just because I didn’t really have the space for 3 printers. Now I will say, if you can pony up another $200 the Qidi q2 is a superior printer. This thing just kills it on every print. The heated chamber is amazing on it and heats very quickly. If $300 is your budget though you absolutely can’t go wrong with the Centauri carbon.
I’ve been on the fence about buying a centauri carbon. how are they? do you have any other printers you could compare it to? have you printed any pa6 yet? Id love to hear about your experience.
It’s my first printer but it’s amazing printed right out the box with no problems when printing back to back and prints that take long periods of time, I’ve only worked with polymax pla but the I was told through extensive research benefits of the Centauri carbon is that it can print some cf filaments out the box as well without having to change the nozzle which is why in the future I’ll move towards pa6 and or pa12. For the price I think it’s worth it
Mind showing some pla prints? I’m curious to see the quality it’s capable of.
Some frames are printed rails up some rails down, rails down is my go to just because supports sometimes are hard to remove which messes with the look ( doesn’t interfere with function just how it looks)
Assuming you’re using mostly defaults or recommended settings (you said it’s your first printer so I’m gonna assume you’re not straying too far from provided settings and finding your feet-which you certainly seem to be doing it fast) I’m impressed with what it’s giving you especially if you’re not slowing down the speeds for additional quality. One common problem my printers have is the tendency to ghost features in the finish unless I slow it down but I can’t find any in yours. I see a few overhang rough spots but that’s about it. The orca looks great. Based off those pictures I’d buy one if I had the extra money.
Yea I spent about a week and a half of trial and error slowing down speeds compensating cooling, basically fiddling with the settings , until I figured out what works best. I couldn’t really find a lot of people that already had settings for polymax pla so I really didn’t have no choice but to figure it out myself
So you did use settings slower than the speeds they claim on the ads? Which there’s nothing wrong with doing that as a user if you’re trying to go for maximum quality. Can you remember how much slower you made it? If your curious why Im hyper focusing on this it’s mostly because getting better visual/structural (<probably) quality from higher print speeds is more what I’m interested in and the engineering materials capacity is the cherry on top.
