You won’t have much volume in it though because the baffle size will only be like 1.32” which is too small for 300 blk and almost too small for 9mm. I have the exact same style but in the surefire socom and it truthfully is t big enough for anything other than 22 and maybe 9mm subs.

I don’t anneal pps-cf and to tell you the truth I also don’t anneal pa6 or ppa anymore either because it makes them weaker.

I think your best bet would be to run a set of 60 degree cone style baffles and then a set of radial style baffles. This would make it work well with both supers and subs. I have a metal can that I built and it has 8 Dino style baffles and 3 radials and it does amazing. What caliber will you be running would really be your pivotal decision.

You did not create this! This exact model has been posted for a long time!

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Yeah I’ve been thinking about that as well. Maybe do a 1 piece and contour it more.

Did you have to shim your cam?

I think it could be a possibility like the bigger one has. On this one I thickened the inside of it where it would normally have the bolt cut out area because the bolt doesn’t come back far enough to interact with it anyway. I also did this to the area where the springs and guide rods insert. I had some help from Stainedglasses44 on this as well.

I would just get a Septree dehydrator. You can get the white one that will fit 2 rolls for as low as 60 bucks and then put a lazy Susan in it to print from. I have one and I also have a Sunlu S4 dryer. I dry in my dehydrator first for a few days and then either print from it or transfer to the Sunlu and print. It works great and I use it for pps-cf, ppa-cf, pa-cf, pet-cf, etc. Good luck brother and hope this helps!!!

I concure lmao!!!

Sure brother! That’s what I enjoy doing. I like to help people and what other way to get help than to ask questions.

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I probably spent a year or so really tinkering back and forth. I do have some PLA settings that work pretty dang good. I can upload a 3mf file to my Odysee with them on there. I have incorporated the fuzzy skin into them to allow the lines to basically disappear. I run my fuzzy skin at .07/.07 to do this, but I’ve also changed up support settings, jerk, and acceleration to help as well.

It works really well. However, it’s still not as good as running a .4 nozzle with my settings. I really done this with the .6 for those people that kept asking about a .6 nozzle and for those times that we get bad/cheap rolls of pa-cf. I used Sunlu pa6-cf in my testing which was the cheapest I came across at 17 bucks for a 1/2kg.

Yes! Use my settings for all of it and change all the line widths to .5 and the layer height to .12! The rest of the settings I use the same as my .4 nozzle settings. I have changed my Z height top support gap to .23!

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I didn’t think about it messing with the 3mf file and not allowing you to just change the nozzle and line width size. I will make a new 3mf with the .6 nozzle and upload. It’s all the same setting and the only thing different is line width and size of nozzle.