Hello, this is my first time posting, so apologies if I’m doing anything wrong here.
What kind of modifications / changes are needed to ensure that the Bambu Lab P1S has no problems printing PA6-CF or more advanced filaments? It has a stainless steel nozzle already, which seems to have the heat resistance needed for advanced filaments, but that’s not recommended for filaments that cause more wear from what I’ve read. My current idea is purchasing a 0.4mm hardened steel hotend from Bambu and installing that, but is there anything else needed?
On top of the 0.4mm hardened nozzle, you’ll also want the hardened extruder gears. They’re cheap and keep your extruder gears from wearing out.
You can make do with other build plates but if you dont want to worry about bed adhesion at all and plan to do prints with various engineering filaments I would highly recommend the DarkMoon CFX build plate. It’s an actual carbon fiber weave encased in resin that sticks very well to Nylons, PET, ASA, and so on (it isnt great for PLA though, their Satin plate is great for that).
300blkfde’s settings are the go to for everything nylon, with some small changes it’s great for everything from PA6-CF to PPS-CF.
As for more advanced filaments like PPS, you can add a 33ohm resistor inline with the thermistor of a spare hardened nozzle. This tricks the P1S into thinking that the nozzle temp is lower than it is and allows the temp to go higher. But for this material you’ll also need a chamber heater. There’s many designs out there but expect the heater and power supply to cost around $80-$100 to fully build. Some other filaments can benefit from the chamber heater but PPS is the main one where it’s actually required to print.
Hi, thank you very much for the reply. I thought there was something missing, and it was the hardened gears, so I’ll be sure to pick those up and replace those. I do have some more follow up questions if you or someone else doesn’t mind answering them:
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My p1s is in my closet where it prints, but I was wondering how safe this would be with moving up to filaments that have much more fumes than PLA. My idea is to use the enclosure and have an air filter in the closet, or next to the door. Would this be satisfactory? Should I change any preset fan settings in OrcaSlicer to mitigate the fumes?
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You say 300blkfde’s settings are a go-to, but would I be able to just use the Fiberon PA6-CF preset in OrcaSlicer and just run through the calibration options? I prefer to do it myself to make sure there is no problems.
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I currently have the textured pei plate for my p1s, and was wondering when glue is absolutely necessary. I’ve only ever printed PLA+, but I’ve never had any adhesion issues, ever. Must I truly use glue or purchase that plate to ensure there is no issues? (Excuse any possible ignorance here.)
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I know the filament should absolutely be dried before use, but should it also be dried during printing? And if so, how hot should it be drying during printing?
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What precautions should I take when taking a new PA6-CF print off the plate? I’ve read that it could be harmful to your skin. Should I wear gloves and a respirator when first managing it? If this is true, what is needed to be done to the object to ensure it’s safe to breathe next to and manage with no gloves?
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When annealing, does part fitment become affected? I’ve only ever printed PLA+, so I’ve never annealed or accounted for any shrinking, but all my PLA parts fit very well with no modifications.
Glue is necessary with nylons on the textured pei bed. It will curl up and break away instantly without it. I bare hand cf nylons and my skin is fine. I feed from an ams with dessicant to keep it dry during print. Annealing is a hot button topic and not always necessary.
- Don’t know. Will leave that for someone with more knowledge
2.main reason is you can squeeze a bit more strength out of things by printing them hotter and slower and grabbing his preset just works for most people, you’re free to make your own or adjust to your liking
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Nylons biggest issue is usually sticking to the plate, a super clean plate and decent size brim can also work, but one of the upgraded plates can save a decent amount of headache given the price of these filaments.
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It need to be dried at 80c+ but 60c or so is fine to keep it dry while printing.
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Mostly not much of an issue, can occasionally give you “splinters” if it does paint/seal it. No real need for the respirator unless sanding it.
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It can but mostly can be prevented by packing the part with salt/sand and covering the outside with the same. Easiest is a glass casserole dish in whatever size will hold your parts. The sand/salt will help everything keep its dimensions.
Arguably more important than annealing is moisture conditioning, which can be accomplished by just leaving it in open air for a couple weeks (assuming you live pretty much anywhere more humid than phoenix Arizona) or sped up a bit by putting it in a ziplock/ sealed container with a wet sponge. Then just let osmosis do its thing.
Orca slicer has a lot of things wrong in there preset as well as about every other slicer out there. This is the reason I made my preset available for everyone to use. You can still add your little touches to it as per your machine, but if you want a perfect print without wasting a bunch of filament it’s everyone’s go to.
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Pretty much nailed it! I have nothing to add! Lol
as far as hardware the hardened steel nozzle is a must. Another thing you need is some glue sticks for bed adhesion or printing at a 45° angle or both lmao. Also i use 300blkfde settings for printing but slowing it down is definitely a must. When i first tried pa6 i was impatient and had a lot of warp issues so just make sure you do all necessary steps and you’ll be chillin.
