Been learning about Nylon strengths and weaknesses. I know moisture isn’t as big of a deal as people make it out to be but was hoping for some advice/understanding on which type of nylon cf might be best for me.
So pa6 is strong as hell…but once it’s saturated it loses a ton of its initial strength.
To my understanding PA612CF15 retains way more strength when saturated.
This is with and without annealing. Either way you’re losing strength. So my question is. If you lived in a relatively humid environment… are you going PA6CF20? PA612CF15? PA612CF10 or PA12Cf?
It has better elongation at break when wet than dry. Gonna have to define “stronger” a bit more rigidly (heh) if you wanna make clear comparisons.
It sounds like aluminum when you flick it right off the print bed, but it shouldn’t if you intend to build a Glock out of it.
I’ve just been not worrying about it. I don’t anneal anymore. It got too brittle. Elongation at break was reduced due to it all becoming one crystal. A glock frame having a little flex isn’t that big of a deal and you shouldn’t have to worry about creep unless you put in into a situation with a constant force. Whenever you need something to not flex at all then there’s other materials. I still use pla+ for certain things that need to be more rigid yet aren’t exposed to heat that much. You’ve got pet-cf, pet-gf which are heat resistant and don’t start softening from moisture. I mean pet is what water bottles are made of.
As I’ve pointed out before, at 5.3% moisture content (which you’re unlikely to reach even if you live on the gulf coast and store everything outdoors) the bending modulus of Fiberon PA6-CF is still 2286 MPa. That’s only 18% less than Polylite PLA Pro and 16% more than eSun PLA+. Impact strength significantly improves with moisture and tensile strength and layer adhesion don’t actually change that much.
