I’d assume it’s best to drill your holes before you anneal? Since the stiffer the part is the more likely it is to crack? Can’t find solid answer anywhere.
I’d assume it’s best to drill your holes before you anneal? Since the stiffer the part is the more likely it is to crack? Can’t find solid answer anywhere.
For some reason alot of the p1s’s struggle with xy horizontal holes. The smaller ones tend to come out wonky. Spent weeks trying to diagnose the issue and days trying to fix it. Tried cleaning/greasing/tightening etc. Everything. Ended up learning how to undersize holes in cad so they can be drilled perfectly.
If you absolutely must drill into the material to enlarge something, I would do it pre-anneal. The annealing process changes the structural rigidity and properties of the material. Any surface treatment that needs to be done (besides sanding) should be done before annealing.
annealing can cause dimensional changes. I dont see any reason to intentionally drill pre anneal
It’s not a native issue to bambu’s software, or tinkercad, or any mesh software. It’s just material properties. You usually want to either undersize or oversize holes depending on application (heat set, general, pins, etc). just because a bolt diameter measures out to be 3mm doesn’t mean it will actually thread in properly unless you tap the hole or size it up another .2mm. I just meant using a caliper tool to figure out the center point of the hole, then whatever your bolt diameter is, I found adding .2mm to that works perfect with any PLA+, ASA-CF08 and PA6.
Ohh okay. I kinda misunderstood what you were saying. Are you saying use the calipers to make sure it’s perfectly aligned before drilling?
The main problem is the fcg pin holes. They’d come out slightly oval shaped. After the holes were drilled, there’d always be a bit of wiggle room which would cause them to walk. So I figured shrink the hole, then drill it carefully. So far the pins are much more secure. Contemplating anti walk pins as well.
I mean take measurements of where the holes are supposed to go (if you’re referencing another firearm with the same holes) and use those measurements from the caliper tool to recreate the holes in a software, and oversize them by .2mm (if doing .20 resolution). that way, no drilling is required, just any post annealing you may need to do.
Drilling is simply a necessity caused by typical fdm printing. The top is going to bridge so will sag unless using support material with 0 z height. Even then, it won’t stop the layer stepping and drilling is needed to get as close to a perfect hole as possible for pins to fit as best as they can.